Traditional Gujarati Mashru Weaving
It’s believed Mashru weaving originated in Arab nations, most notably Iraq. Indeed, the very word comes from the Arabic meaning “permitted”. This name signified the prohibition of pure silk garments for Muslim men due to Islamic Laws. The spread of Mashru weaving was probably aided by the development of Islam in India. In earlier history, this weaving technique was prevalent in most of the country but has since receded and is now mainly woven inside the state of Gujarat.
So what is Mashru? It’s a mixed fabric that combines cotton and silk. This merging of the two fabrics meant Muslim men could get around the rule where the wearing of pure silk was forbidden. The Mashru fabric is woven in vibrant colors typical of the region and also contains a satin weave. On the outer face is silk with a smooth and glossy finish, whilst cotton is worn facing towards the body. The inner cotton layer is absorbent which aids cooling in the hot climate.
Ikat pattern techniques are often used during the creation of Mashru fabric. This allows for a wide variety of patterns and shapes to be used thereby increasing the aesthetics of the fabric. Solid stripes and strong hues are used to great effect.
There are a number of different types of Mashru weaving which include alacha and qatna which are most popular in Gujarat as well as gulbadan, susi, galta and sangi. Today, the Gujarati city of Patan is the central hub of Mashru weaving.
The examples of Gujarati Mashru weaving shown here are amazing. Are there sources for the fabric in the United States or can the fabric be purchased online?
I design custom hats and can imagine using Gujarati Mashru weaving for some stylish accessories.
Hello Susan. I’m Teddy B, co-writer of Craft Sutra.
I had a good scout about for United States suppliers of Mashru fabric but unfortunately was unable to come up with any links or bases that actually sold Mashru itself. There might well be suppliers somewhere in the US but it seems they are not easy to find online.
I’ll keep an eye out nevertheless and will contact you if I see any American suppliers that can help you.
Hi Teddy,
If you find any suppliers of mashru, would you also let me know? It is so gorgeous and just impossible to get ahold of! I will keep on the lookout too. Thanks.
wow! you have really turned this into a sassy site! kudos!